Day 16, 17, 18 October 11-13 After morning light stretching and breakfast, we boarded buses to go to the notorious prison S21 where there were only 7 survivors out of the thousands who were prisoners there during the Pol Pot regime. Two of the survivors were there to talk to us and sign books. They were saved because they had skills the Khmer Rouge wanted. One was a mechanic and the other an artist who was to paint pictures and murals of Pol Pot and other Khmer Rouge leaders.

After touring the horrific prison, we again boarded the buses and went out of Phnom Penh to visit the Killing Fields. People who were seen as unnecessary doctors, lawyers, educators, anyone who had experience in a foreign country were selected for agrarian work. If you had any dissent or challenged the political system, you were sent to a prison; if you were suspected of spying, etc. you were tortured into confessing and then transported to the Killing Fields for execution. If a husband was executed, usually his wife and children were also killed. Half the population of Cambodia died during the reign of the Khmer Rouge, half were murdered, half died from starvation because of the failure of the 4-year agrarian reform policies. In the Killing Fields area there is a large monument 50 or so feet high filled with human skulls of some of the murdered.

We then returned to the boat for lunch. In the afternoon we started down the Mekong River towards Vietnam. Alan spent more time in the hot tub during this afternoon off. There was a costume demonstration with several of our fellow travelers donning typical Cambodian costumes.

The pre-dinner talk was about the relationship between Cambodia and Vietnam, not always friendly to say the least. Dinner was a special small group experience with South Asia food. After dinner there was a huge storm with 50 mile an hour winds, rain, and lightning. We had to bring in the pillows from the balcony to keep them from blowing away, and the balcony furniture was blown every which way. It was pretty scary. After dinner there was a musical game which turned out to be a lot of fun.

The next day we re-entered Vietnam at 9 AM, and after Customs and Passport control were cleared, there was a demonstration of Spring Roll making. Since we have done that four times already, we went to the Spa where Alan had a neck, back, and shoulder massage and BJ had a facial. We sailed down the Mekong into an area with extensive water hyacinths and 5000 kms of narrow canals. We transferred to small sampans to go into the narrow shallow canals. We then motored to a small village on Long Kanh Island where textiles are produced. First, we stopped at the home of a 78-year-old Viet Cong medic who continues to work as a nurse in the village. He still fits into his uniform, and we took pictures of him and Alan together. His house is quite nice since he still receives a government pension.

Then we walked some more around the island, stopping at a home where they produced fabric. Much of the work is now performed on an electric loom, although the father demonstrated a foot and hand loom he still uses. We bought several scarves. They also had quite a collection of beautiful orchids growing in the house.

Then it was back to the ship and a lecture about Vietnamese history, religion, and culture before dinner.

On Friday, we visited An Giang Island going again by sampan and then motorcycle drawn carts.

This is a large island housing a mango plantation and a Franciscan monastery. In the early 19^th century, the Vietnam king courted the assistance of the French Catholics and encouraged Catholicism. After they assisted him to obtain the throne, he continued to support the church. His son, however, suppressed the church and the Catholic religion and created many martyrs, two of whom were made saints.  We visited the Franciscan monastery which now has only three priests and three lay brothers living in a huge area of 500 acres or more. We visited their church and talked with the Abbott.

Then back through the village to watch a woman making Non La, the traditional conical grass hats. She can make two a day which she sells for $3 each.

Then back to the sampan and one more visit to the traditional boat maker on An Giang Island. He was bending the yellow oak stakes for the boat over a small wood fire.  He can single-handedly make one boat every two days which he sells for $25 each. The peak time for his work only lasts about three months after which he sells a few boats. The boats last about five years with good care. They are used mostly for fishing.

Then we returned to the Mekong Jewel for lunch.

In the afternoon Alan went by sampan to the city of Sa Dec where he first went to a Cao Dai temple church. Cao Dai is a religion started by a 26-year-old in the 1920s. It incorporates Confucianism, Taoism, Buddhism, Christianity, Islam, Judaism, and worships the founders of all the above religions, and for some reason that is totally unclear, Victor Hugo.

Then he went to a traditional Chinese cultural museum where he saw a performance with lion/dragon dancers and drums and cymbals.

After walking around a crowded downtown area, he went to the wet market where meats, live and dried fish, and fresh vegetables were sold in an absolutely chaotic market with motorcycles and scooters loaded with shopping bags whizzing up and down the narrow aisles. 

Then a quick stop at an old house from the late 1800s where the doomed love story of a French woman and a rich Chinese merchant played out. She returned to France and wrote a book on which the French movie “The Lovers” was based.

Then back to the ship for a shower and rest and an update on what is planned for tomorrow. After dinner, there was a performance on traditional Vietnamese instruments done with the players in traditional clothes and doing traditional dancing.

Tomorrow is our last full day on board the Mekong Jewel and promises to be a busy one.