Day 23, October 18 Today was our second cooking lesson in Vietnam. We wanted to see the difference between Northern and Southern cooking, so we decided to take a lesson in each area. We were picked up at 8 by cyclo which is similar to a rickshaw. The cart is pushed by a bike ridden by the driver. Each of us had our own cyclo which is quite an experience in early morning rush hour traffic. We were surrounded by motorcycles and cars honking away with us just peddling alone. The cyclo drivers took us on a little tour of the area, some of which we had already seen, but also by the war Museum, which has downed US helicopters and fighter jets. I sure wish we had had the chance to go there.

The cyclo dropped us at the Central Market where our shopping guide took us to the places that sold vegetables, fruits, meats, and fish. We hadn’t found that area yesterday, so it was all new and different. The meat is hung in the open and cut to order. Fish is either very fresh or still alive and swimming in tubs. The fruits, vegetables, and herbs are amazing and there were booths with nothing but spices. This kind of stuff is our favorite thing at local markets so glad we finally got to see it.

After purchasing supplies for the class, our guide asked if instead of walking, did I want to take a cab and meet everyone else there. Sure, I said. All of a sudden, he contracted with a motor cyclist to take me on a full-size cycle. I couldn’t get on from the right side, so we tried the left. I proceeded to get halfway up and fell backwards being caught by three men before I could fall off the cycle. We finally got me on, and off we zoomed. Alan was not quick enough to take a picture, but it is just as well because I probably would have looked terrified. We were in the midst of all the traffic, weaving in and out, honking like everyone else, and going what felt like 200 miles an hour. Finally, at least what was the longest ten minutes of my life, was done and we were at the restaurant. Now came the part of getting me off. Motorcycles are definitely not for old women with bad joints. Alan and the other couple got there, and we went up to the second floor for the lesson. It was a very nice setup with each of us having a station to work at. Again, we used Japanese knives and again, I really liked them. We started by making the broth for the chicken pho, as it takes quite a bit of time to cook. The bones had been simmering a long time before we got there, so it was mostly added herbs, spices, vegetables, and sauces. We made totally different spring rolls, morning glory with garlic, egg and scallion pancakes stuffed with shrimp and pork and egg coffee. It took the entire morning, and we taxied home stuffed with good food.

After packing the rest of the day and relaxing, we ordered a room service pizza and got to bed early. We are getting picked up at 5:30 A.M. for the ride to the airport, so needed an early night.