Yesterday we were to leave Bassano del Grappa so after another huge breakfast we checked out and left our luggage (such as it was) at the B&B and walked over to the Museo Civico. Bassano del Grappa has about 60000 permanent residents and this museum was quite a surprise for a town that size. It is in a great place (an old cloister) and has a lot of world class art including rooms full of plaster casts or models of Canova sculptures. Canova was from Bassano del Grappa.
We spent a couple of hours there then went back to the B&B and got our “stuff,” walked to the train station, and caught the next train to Venice with 4 minutes to spare. Jumping onto a train that we were not sure was the right train was a big step for us. Walking back to the apartment from the train station, I was thinking more and more about the liver dish Alan had eaten for dinner the night before. He was therefore forced to stop in at da Alberto restaurant and make a reservation for last night so I could get a liver fix. We got to the apartment and then went to the bar next door for cichetti (think tapas like things) and a glass of wine. We seem to be having wine twice a day lately. Well, at least not for breakfast yet! We had a late reservation for dinner and it was so worth waiting for. For many years, I have been reading Ruth’s (Boleskin on SlowTrav) and Martin’s adventures and she always raves about the vongole veraci she eats. Last night we found out why she loves them so. Small clams perfectly steamed with garlic and parsley and Heaven knows what else. What’s not to love?
Just thinking about them makes me want more! Then I had my liver
and Alan had both tagliatelle with squid and zucchini and a meat dish topped with smoked ricotta cheese, arugula, and balsamic vinegar.
This morning we got a slow start (I know, what a surprise) and finally left the apartment about 12. We walked over to the Rialto Market and bought fresh porcini mushrooms, fresh chanterelle mushrooms, pumpkin, radicchio, fruit, Parmesan cheese, and a few other vegetables. Then we decided to see if we could find Al Garanghelo, a restaurant we had been to two years ago that is located behind the Rialto Market. We found it easily and had a great meal, Alan having an amazing fish stew and I had pasta with shrimp, artichokes, and lemon. We then decided to wander around San Polo Sestiere
and wound up at the Natural History Museum. We had been wanting to go there so took the opportunity and, wow, it is so well done. Definitely a must see if you haven’t been there.
After that we came back home and got cooking. We made a fresh porcini and chanterelle risotto and roasted the pumpkin and the radicchio to go with it. It was interesting making a risotto at sea level rather than at 6000 feet in altitude which is where we live. It goes faster with less liquid. Nice!
We seem to be cooking a lot more this trip and are enjoying experimenting with the great fresh local ingredients. Tomorrow is another day and we have no plans yet. Kinda like it that way.


Day 19 and Day 20-Bassano del Grappa and back in Venice — 4 Comments

  1. Oh boy, the risotto with those gorgeous, fresh mushrooms sounds divine!
    I have a photograph of that same branch trying to escape the confining wall of it’s garden and arching over the canal!